“Yellowstone” is the cowboy drama on everybody’s lips, intriguing viewers with its gripping plot and talented actors. What may not be widely known by many is the fact that when it comes to the attire worn by the characters, there is more than what meets the eye, especially concerning their cowboy hats.
The cowboy hats of five “Yellowstone” stars have hidden meanings embedded in their design. More than just an accessory adding to their cowboy get-ups, these hats reveal important details about each character’s personality and distinct look.
Cowboy hats also have a rich history that dates back to 1865 when iconic Western hatter John B. Stetson invented the first commercially manufactured one. Since then, cowboy hats have been accessories worn by people around the world.
Regarding who is responsible for the hat maintaining popularity, credit goes to the “Yellowstone” and “1923” costume design team, spearheaded by award-winning costume designer Janie Bryant, and the creator of both shows Taylor Sheridan.
However, according to Bryant, whose work has been cited as influential by world-renowned designers like Vera Wang and Michael Kors, the popular appeal of the hats has a lot to do with the symbols people associate with the item.
“I think it really is about the American spirit. There’s a wildness […] and a sense of freedom that we identify with the cowboy hat. It’s iconically American, and I think people relate with it globally,” she explained in an interview from 2023.
Bryant started venturing into designing Western costumes in 2004, with her costume creations featured on HBO’s critically acclaimed series “Deadwood.” Her work was so well done that she scored an Emmy.
Speaking about her process when she designs cowboy hats specifically, Bryant divulged, “I try to be as authentic to the period as possible, and to illuminate the character with the design of each hat. On ‘1923,’ I researched all the different types of hats that were worn in the twenties, and a little bit earlier as well.”
Upon conducting her research, Bryant found that, during that era, cowboy hats were very big. Felt hats were also favored over straw hats, which were not used at that time. Bryant and her team also worked closely with Montana hat maker Bear to produce a selection of hats for “1923.”
Of the experience, Bryant recalled, “I feel blessed that we found Bear. We shot in a small town, and Bear would bring his camper to the studio and just make hats for us all day long, with different colors, different hat blocks, and different felts. He made hundreds of hats for us.”
Of those hundreds of hats Bear made, we’re taking a closer look at the ones worn by Harrison Ford, Cole Hauser, Luke Grimes, Kelly Reilly, and Kevin Costner’s “Yellowstone” characters. When it comes to crafting their hats, authenticity is key.
Show creator Sheridan, whom costume designer Johnetta Boone calls the “authenticator,” is well-versed in all things cowboy. As a result of Sheridan’s preference for authenticity, Boone uses techniques to distress the hats and give them a lived-in feel.
Harrison Ford AKA Jacob Dutton’s Large High-Crowned Gray Cowboy Hat
First on the list is Harrison Ford, who stars in “1923” as powerful Montana rancher Jacob Dutton, otherwise known as the great-granduncle of John Dutton in “Yellowstone.” Reportedly, Ford’s character’s hat is a standout for viewers, among the flurry of impeccably designed cowboy hats.
Drawing inspiration from the popular hat Robert Duvall’s character wore in “Lonesome Dove,” Ford’s high-crowned gray hat has a wide brim that is rolled up on each side and features a steep front dip.
Bryant had a lot of conversations with Ford to create the hat. The two spoke about different hat blocks and creases before ultimately deciding on what is known as the Montana peak. “It’s a slope style that’s higher in the back and shorter in the front, and the slope goes down the center,” Bryant shared.
Trusting her instinct, Bryant felt this particular style would suit Ford’s character, as she described it as very strong and masculine—characteristics that perfectly capture Jacob Dutton.
Concerning the colors used for Ford’s hat, Bryant said she chose silver and gray to reflect underlying personality traits. “I loved using silver and gray, because there’s a coolness and a traditional sensibility to his character. He’s hardened in a way by just working the land,” she noted.
Cole Hauser AKA Rip Wheeler’s Curled Cowboy Hat
The hat worn by Cole Hauser, otherwise known as “Yellowstone’s” Rip Wheeler, further speaks to the authentic and lived-in approach prioritized by Sheridan, Boone, and Bryant.
“First of all, it’s completely morphed to the shape of his face because of the way he’s curled it over time, which tells us that he’s been wearing it nonstop every day on the ranch since he was a teenager,” revealed Boone.
Boone, who makes use of “movie dirt” and natural elements from filming locations and oil to rub into the cowboy hats, goes on to explain how initially Hauser’s character’s hat was clean, black, and rigid in shape.
“But now it’s curled in a way that says he’s been at this job for a long time,” she finished. Hauser’s cowboy hat is not the only one that has been worked on to look worn and dirty, as Luke Grimes’ character also rocks the dirt-stained look.
Luke Grimes AKA Kayce Dutton’s Filthy Cowboy Hat
While Hauser’s may be a little dirty, it is no match for the hat worn by Luke Grimes aka Kayce Dutton. A media outlet even goes so far as to dub the hat “downright gross.” However, according to Boone, who sometimes uses a torch on the hats to burn and break down clean fibers, it’s on purpose.
“Kayce’s hat tells us that he’s not just the ranch owner’s son, he also works hard and means business. He absolutely gets in there and gets his hands dirty,” disclosed Boone.
Interestingly, when Boone tried to gift Grimes’ character with a clean, new hat for Season 3 to match his new esteemed title as the Montana Livestock Commissioner, Sheridan told her not to.
Sheridan called the costume designer to tell her not to change the hat despite her reasoning that she and Grimes thought he needed a fresh hat since he also wore new clothes for his first day at his new job.
However, Sheridan stopped them dead in their tracks, saying, “He might have a clean hat for a special occasion, but that’s not the occasion.”
Kelly Reilly AKA Beth Dutton’s Soft Cowboy Hat
Kelly Reilly, aka “Yellowstone’s” Beth Dutton, is reportedly the show’s most popular character, best known for her fiery and vicious persona. However, when it comes to her cowboy hat, the wardrobe department wanted to highlight a softer side of her.
Crafted especially for Reilly, the hat illustrates her vulnerability and compassion, even though it may be embedded deep beneath her tough exterior. Boone spoke about how seeing Reilly with her cowboy hat on makes viewers feel differently about the “hard-nosed executive.”
She added, “We hadn’t seen Beth on a horse before, so we wanted viewers to fall in love with seeing her on horseback with that hat.”
Kevin Costner AKA John Dutton’s Different Cowboy Hats
Last, but certainly not least on the list is Kevin Costner’s character John Dutton. Unlike most of his fellow co-stars, “The Bodyguard” actor’s character wears many hats that define his personality. Each hat worn is largely dependent on what the character is doing in a particular scene.
His formal big black hat was worn in Season 5 when he was sworn in as the governor of Montana. While this hat in particular appears especially grand on the TV screen, Boone revealed that it is nothing more than an optical illusion.
“Kevin’s governor’s hat might look bigger, but it’s actually the exact same hat as all of his others. They’re all the same size and shape,” she clarified. However, she said that the difference lies in how the hats are worn.
Boone stated that when Costner’s character wears his cowboy outfit, the hat doesn’t appear as threatening or as broad as it tends to look when he wears a suit.
Speaking about the importance of using color for all the characters’ hats, Boone unveiled, “Taylor set the color tone early on, and the tone is sunset. We use sunset hues because they’re warmer, and they create a relationship between the viewer and the cowboys, because it’s connected to the Earth.”
Adding another layer of distinction between the custom-made “Yellowstone” cowboy hats and commercial ones, the costume designers use beaver fur.
Highlighting the noticeable difference between the two, Boone mentioned, “A tourist would wear a felt cowboy hat, but real cowboys wear beaver hats because they’re waterproof, and they hold their shape regardless of the weather conditions.”
